Copenhagen is often crowned as Europe’s best toddler-friendly city so I decided to put it to the test on a recent family holiday with my two-year-old
I’ve always loved a city break; the food, the sightseeing, getting to meander somewhere new and soaking up all of the culture. However, if you throw a two-year-old into the mix, suddenly it felt like my options were limited.
I wanted somewhere that was family-friendly (obviously), but not just because kids are welcome; I needed somewhere that had food my toddler would actually want to eat, streets where I could feasibly navigate a pram (so, not cobbles), and sightseeing that both myself and my little one could enjoy.
From the moment I started researching where to go, there was one destination that seemed to pop up everywhere I looked; Copenhagen, Denmark. Widely considered one of Europe’s most toddler-friendly cities with a vibe that promised coffee shops, playgrounds and toddler-friendly attractions, it seemed to tick all of the boxes so I decided to put it to the test…
Getting to Copenhagen
A short flight time was important and direct routes from the UK to Copenhagen take just under two hours (from Liverpool it’s about 2hrs 5mins), so getting to the city was fairly easy. We flew from London Heathrow with British Airways as it worked out best value for us when it came to our bags.
Copenhagen airport itself is so easy to navigate – once you get through the annoying EES queues – and the metro station is actually within the building, so that made getting to the city centre seamless. From the airport to the city it’s about half an hour max on the Metro, and the platforms/trains are very pram-friendly which was useful. There were plenty of taxi options but we had booked a flat via AirBnb that wasn’t far from a station, so public transport was very convenient for us.
What to do in Copenhagen with a toddler
Copenhagen Main Library: This library has an entire floor dedicated to a kids’ section, complete with a soft play, interactive zones and plenty of toys and books. Our toddler had a blast picking out books and then hiding away in one of the many dens and tents dotted along the shelves. There’s even an adorable dedicated ‘buggy parking’ zone which felt like a proper car park thanks to bays and lockers – it was all very efficient, and after an hour or so we headed down for a coffee and pastry break at the library’s cafe.
The Round Tower: We wanted to do some actual sightseeing and the Round Tower is one of the city’s landmarks. The spiral tower was actually built so that horses and carts could make their way to the top, so it’s very pram-friendly! Just be warned that it is a bit steep, so you may want to take shifts on who is actually pulling the pram, and keep any toys with wheels away from toddlers or you may end up having to race down the tower trying to grab a runaway Hot Wheels car! When you get to the top there is a viewing point, but this bit is accessed by a very steep staircase, so you’ll need to ditch the pram and carry your kid up the 20 or so steps. (The views are worth it).
Tivoli Gardens: This theme park is said to have inspired Walt Disney for Disneyland, and it’s easy to see why. The whimsical gardens, fun rides and plethora of eateries made this one of our favourite spots. Our little one could run around as there was heaps of space, and we were impressed at the amount of rides he could actually sit on with us. It was a great way of tiring him out, while we also had lots of fun and enjoyed the gardens. (You can read my full review here).
Nyhavn Harbour: The iconic colourful waterfront buildings are arguably Copenhagen’s biggest attraction. Yes, you need to keep a firm hold of your toddler’s hand because of the water, but the bars and cafes were all very family-friendly, and we stopped off for a drink one afternoon. If you want to explore the city by water, there are also plenty of canal boat tours which were fun, although they last about an hour which wasn’t as fun with a restless toddler!
The Little Mermaid: If you’ve got a toddler who only naps in the pram, it’s worth the longish walk out to see the Little Mermaid statue. It’s a nice way to explore the city and the route is fairly flat, but there’s not much to do in the area, so if you’re tight on time then the Metro might be a better option.
The playgrounds: Copenhagen is packed full of parks and playgrounds, which was a huge bonus as it meant every day had somewhere where our toddler could run around a bit while we had a coffee and soaked up the views.
Eating out
Let’s be honest, with a two-year-old who has yet to master sleeping through the night, I wasn’t looking for bars or clubs for nightlife. But the restaurants are a must-try, and early evening dinners mean you miss the later, potentially rowdier, crowds. Restaurant staff would ask us if we needed high chairs for toddlers or babies, offer up kids’ menus with activity packs and crayons, and were completely unbothered when there were a few toddler tantrums. Most evenings we were back at our AirBnb by dinner, but the few nights where we reckoned we could stretch out a late nap, it was well worth it.
However where Copenhagen really shines is with its coffee shop culture. There are heaps of bakeries and coffee shops that are open from early morning (very welcome with a toddler who is usually up by 5.30am), so there’s ample opportunity to treat yourself to a coffee and pastry, or sit outside near a park and ease yourself into the day. The city’s laidback vibe was a huge hit for us, as nothing felt rushed and we didn’t feel like we were getting in the way with our pram, or when the toddler wanted to run around.
The verdict
Copenhagen is definitely very toddler-friendly. Yes some streets are a bit narrow which is awkward with a pram, and like any city there are some areas that are full of bars where the vibe isn’t quite as family-friendly, but overall it was one of the easiest breaks I’ve done with my toddler, and one I’ve been recommending to heaps of my fellow parents ever since!
